Flying over here I did not expect to get any surfing opportunities as I was 100% focused on skiing. Turns out my bag is set to arrive tomorrow so this means that I will get 3 days of surfing before I head up to the snow. Not a bad alternative when you loose you bags!
Staying at a friend of a frieds house down here and have been surfing with them. So funny that the gave me their biggest board thats a 5.8 (smallest I usually ride is a 6.2) So I will admit that its a little challenging but at the same time great practice! Got a whole bunch of waves today and had a fantastic time! Usually when I am about to get crushed by a wave a look at it with fear, but right now I am so stoked to be in the water that I just think “god that turquoise wave is so beautiful” Thats how stoked I am in the water!
Stoked to see more of Sydney as well, we have been surfing at Manly the last couple of days and to be honest I can almost see myself living here, liking it a lot here so far!
Think I might go buy a board this afternoon as I need a board for Hawaii anyway so I might as well get it right away, been a few years since I got myself a new board so pretty pumped!